PURE Evoke 1S (early version) – replacing the OLED display

These details and photos were kindly supplied by Don McQuistan to share with fellow PURE Evoke 1S users wanting to update their displays. Unfortunately I cannot help with queries but you can post comments if you wish. - AW.

Updated: 8th May 2021

Several readers have recommended some Ebay sellers for PURE Evoke displays 1S et seq:

New PURE Evoke 1S 2S D4 D6 Marshall Mio Display Screen

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174620448044

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114638725086

NOT suitable for the Pure Evoke Flow, Avanti Flow, Oasis Flow, F4 - AW.

Don writes:

I have just replaced the OLED display on an early Evoke 1S – the version that has a USB-B (square) socket at the rear. To understand the process it's best to refer to the photos [see below].

NB: Original OLED Crystal Fontz  H9000-F002-C 24 contact - Yellow.
Replacement OLED RiT3003321501001 24 contact – Cold white.

Instructions

1.       Remove 6 screws in back, then half unscrew aerial screw, ease back out.

2.       From the rear inside - see picture – remove 6 screws fixing front PCB and plastic from the wooden case brackets.

3.       Remove two front knobs and nuts underneath, then from inside push front out slightly

4.       Push rear back into place to allow front to come further out – remove 6 screws holding the PCB and heatsink to front plastic, unplug black lead from top of PCB – this is the only lead I unplugged inside the set.

5.       Remove solder from two corners of the screening can as shown – then gently bend the can slightly up to see inside.

6.       Very gently slide - from both sides - black clamp on display socket towards can – see top of picture.

7.       From between the plastic front and PCB pull out the display cable. This will allow the plastic front to drop lower revealing two small screws holding the OLED in place – unscrew and replace display (same way up) and screw back.

8.       With the two solder points unsoldered and the can bent slightly up, you can just see inside: now slide the OLED ribbon through the slit in the underside of the PCB and, as it comes into the can, ‘fish’ it towards the display socket.

9.       This is the really fiddly bit – fiddle the ribbon back into the white display socket with the black clamp till it's out.

10.   When the ribbon is in the white socket, slide the black clamp back to secure ribbon – see picture.

11.   Once secure, plug the black lead back into the top of PCB, power up and check the display.

12.   Remove power, replace 6 screws holding PCB and heatsink to front plastic, gently push can back down – I didn’t re-solder it - push front back home, replace control nuts and knobs.

13.   Remove back, replace 6 screws which hold front in place, replace back and screw in 6 screws plus aerial screw.

14.   No I didn’t re-solder the two corners of the can as the other two corners are well soldered.

15.   I set the display parameters (menu button) so that in Standby the display goes out after 7 secs – this saves the life of the OLED and anyway DAB time is always wrong!

Inside the Evoke Flow 1S [click to see]OLED retainer [click to see]Ribbon cable slot under PCB [click to see]

I hope this helps other users wanting to repair their own PURE Evoke 1S.    Don McQuistan

• For details on the PURE Evoke Flow and other models, see my main threads here.
  

Comments

[Bill]

There is another variant where the ribbon goes around the edge of the PCB, not through the PCB in a cable slot. It is otherwise very similar to the pics you've provided.

I'd say it would be almost impossible to fit (the display ribbon connector) without taking the front and back panels off the (wooden) case. You need to disconnect all the plug-in connectors (incl. battery) to get enough "play" to get the electronics out through the case and, but you don't need to unsolder anything. A screwdriver with a magnetised blade is pretty useful though! The display ribbon connector is delicate and fiddly to fit, take care.

Sorry, I didn't have a camera to hand to take pics, but it's so similar it's pretty obvious if you have this variant as soon as you get the back cover off.

[Al]

Excellent instructions, thanks.

My Evoke 1S had the same variant as Bill's, with the ribbon feeding over the top of the PCB, so no need for a soldering iron. WIth mine, there was also enough slack in all the cables that I could manoeuvre the back panel sideways through the wooden case and out of the front without unplugging anything inside.

[Marion]

Dear Community,
I have got a "PURE Scirocco 550" where the display got slowly darker until it's completely black now.
PURE Helpdesk told me that there's no official repair but to try joining a forum.

Can someone help me out if and where I can get the suitable spare parts and provide a short howto?

Would appreciate support,

Marion

[Alan W]

@ Marion

There are some posts about repairing the Scirocco 550 in another thread, I must say it sounds like a very complicated job. The only source of spare/ replacement OLEDs is Shenzhen Liyuan Huida Technology Co., Ltd. (contact: Jack Wan) who delivers direct.

December 8th 2019
http://alanwinstanley.squarespace.com/alan-winstanleys-journal/2018/2/21/replacing-a-pure-evoke-flow-display.html?currentPage=4#comments

December 28th 2019
http://alanwinstanley.squarespace.com/alan-winstanleys-journal/2018/2/21/replacing-a-pure-evoke-flow-display.html?currentPage=5#comments

https://liyuan-elec.en.alibaba.com/
(Send a message at the bottom of their page)

Sorry I have no photos. This is all the information I have, I hope it helps. Alan W

[Tim Brice]

[PURE Evoke 1s]
Good Instructions-

Repair successful, thanks for the instructions. In my case the replacement was pretty straightforward. Got the replacement from Jack Wan, no desoldering required as my radio had the cutout in the 'can' rather than the slot. Lots of screws (19) to take out and replace but they are all the same except for the aerial fitting. The nuts behind the knobs are 10mm so a socket or box spanner is the best tool here otherwise pliers will do.

Cheers
Tim

[Brian W]

The same replacement part from Jack Wan fits a PURE Evoke Mio Orla Kiely. I ordered direct (via Alibaba) and the total cost with shipping was £10, compared to some eBay listings of £20. Fitting to this model was reasonably easy. The screws to open up the radio are under the rubber feet; and then you need to loosen the screws that are holding on the front cover (long screwdriver needed). Then remove four screws holding the main PCB in place, then 2 screws holding a plastic cover that keeps the screen in place. No need to solder anything, turn the box around to access the screws. Insert the new screen and replace the plastic cover and the PCB. Then, the only tricky part in replacing the screen is inserting the connector end in place. It is more robust than it looks and I used pair of longnose pliers to push it in. Then reassemble (and wonder where the extra screws come from).
Note that when you turn it on the radio takes a few seconds before illuminating the screen.

[Zsofia]

Hi Brian W,

I have the same PURE Evoke Mio Orla Kiely and willing to replace the display screen. Originally it was yellow. Have you changed yours to a yellow screen? If yes, could you please send me the exact name of it so I can order the right one?
Thanks in advance!
Zsofia

[Phil]

I found the same as the September 2020 comments, my cable didn't go through a slot removing the need to desolder the metal shield. My unit is a Pure Evoke 1s. While it has the newer rectangular usb slot it doesn't have Evoke 1s printed on the front panel, only the rear, suggesting an older model, but not the oldest with the ribbon slot on the pcb. I'd recommend a dissection kit with an offset pair of tweezers, very useful if you don't have a magnetic screwdriver. Plus magnifying glasses for locating the ribbon.
Phil

[Tom]

Thanks to Alan everyone for the pointers. I just ordered replacement screens for an Evoke Flow and Evoke 1S from alibaba. This is the item for the Evoke 1S and there is an easy link to displays for other models:

LIYUAN OLED 128x22 P21501 RiTdisplay 3003321501001 3121215010-01 PURE Evoke 1S Marshall Mio D4 radio oled lcd led display screen
Model Number:9921501000,Color:Yellow,Specification:OLED display

I ordered on the 16th and the items arrived on the 28th.

My model didn't require desoldering as the ribbon cable was accessible. I did take the radio out of the box to gain access and removed all the fixing screws and unplugged the connectors to provide more play. The display itself was held in place by a plastic back and screws. When I repaired an Evoke Flow I had to break through glue so the 1S is easier.

The ribbon cable and the retaining clip are both fragile. I found it difficult to get the new dispay to work and broke the retaining clip. In the end I took the plastic strip, which keeps the end of the ribbon cable stiff, off the old cable and used it as a wedge to keep the new cable in place. This worked and helped to make a reliable connection between the contacts on the cable and socket. Lesson to be more careful next time.

The display itself seems perfect.

[Glyn]

NO UNSOLDERING REQUIRED with my Evoke 1S. Otherwise thanks for really helpful guide ;-)

[Lawrie]

In the middle (evoke 1s disassembled) of replacing my screen. I too have the model where the screen ribbon cable folds over the pcb and therefore no need to disassemble.
My issue is getting the ribbon inserted into the connector. For me, the is the black retaining clip and the white fixed part. I have to insert the ribbon in between these and then push/slide the black clip to clamp the ribbon into place.
I am having trouble inserting the ribbon in far enough to allow the clamping acting to be affecting.

Any tips.
I’m cautious of damaging the ribbon traces (something if sone before in a different device) is I bend the ribbon too much.